Re: Using 67PF562 flattener with 130 F6.3 GT


I do believe in your ability to segregate threads from lenses. The size of particle is the size one could only see under Scanning Electron Microscopy. The "chunks" are large enough not to pass behind the threads. On the other hand over time while threading and unthreading graphite will mill itself to sub micron particulate and where it finally ends up is anyone's guess. It's either on the front of the threaded assembly or behind. -Best, Robert 

On 05/22/2021 11:11 AM DFisch <manusfisch@...> wrote:
Robert I started using lead graphite pencils on the threads about 10 years ago. I’ve never seen any particles that really fall to the lenses when I have applied them carefully . I’ve even used a pair of loupes to look for debris on the lens and just haven’t seen it. I first started using it on our interchangeable objectives for our operating microscope and we were very cognizant of any debris falling into the wound after application, I don’t get carried away with the application and if I leave some chunks I certainly wipe them off with a paper  towel or a microfiber cloth 

On Sat, May 22, 2021 at 14:04 ROBERT WYNNE < robert-wynne@...> wrote:
I would be very suspect to use any anti-siezing compound near optics. This is due the introduction of fine metallic particles that make the compound "anti- siezing" even graphite from a "lead" pencil. Anything harder than the lens or coating used as a lubricant is potentially detrimental/destructive to the optics. -Best, Robert
On 05/22/2021 8:29 AM Jeffc < jeffcrilly@...> wrote:
I’m not familiar with metals and thread sizing except from the perspective of experiencing stuck parts.  
I also wonder if “anti-sieze” would be appropriate..  I feel like this would potentially get on optics near the part.


On May 22, 2021, at 7:48 AM, M Hambrick < mhambrick563@...> wrote:

I know your pain Robert.

The first time I locked my ADA2767 and ADA 671 together I did not have any strap wrenches. Using extreme caution I was able to break them loose using a pair of Channellocks and a vise with lots of padding. I think that the usefulness of the strap wrench depends on what kind of rubber is used for the straps. It has to be strong, and it has to be able to grip.

I wonder what the thinking is on putting a very small amount of oil on the threads and / or mating surfaces to avoid this or to at least minimize the amount of force needed to break them loose.





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